 | Durbanville Hills 2005 Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc ($11.99)
This is a transparent and very pale straw color wine from South Africa, bottled under screw cap. Its vivid aromas of white fruit and exuberant green chile peppers may be made in conscious emulation of the New Zealand Cloudy Bay style; flavors are consistent with the nose, herbaceous and fresh, tart acidity provides a spine beneath a mouth-coating texture; crisp citric flavors of lemon-lime and grapefruit linger in a long finish. FOOD MATCH: Depending on whether your perspective is that of a pessimist or an optimist, Sauvignon Blanc in this bold, forward style either goes well with lots of dishes or doesn't go ideally with much of anything. I like it with similarly bold dishes, chicken or seafood or vegetarian dinners with attention-getting (not fiery) Asian or Mediterranean flavors. It worked well with earthy garbanzo pancakes (see the April 20, 2006 Wine Advisor FoodLetter) garnished with goat cheese and prosciutto. (Best value 2006 Robin Garr WineLovers.com) |
 Eben Sadie profile: It is fitting that Eben Sadie (photo: Tom Lubbe, left, and Eben Sadie, right) should name his wine after Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella, author of 'De Rustica' ('On Country Matters'), the most comprehensive account of Roman viticulture that dates back two millennia. The wine itself comes from seven different, unirrigated, fully controlled leased parcels across 52km of the Swartland. The area has a remarkably stable climate, allowing for consistent quality albeit with vintage variation. The distinction of Columella is derived from its terroir, and the character of the vintage. Columella is primarily Syrah with 10% Mourvdre (Vintage 2000). Five of the seven parcels are planted with bushvines and each site reflects a different soil profile, encompassing slate (at Porcelain Mountain), coffee stone, an iron rich soil (Rheeboksfontein), and granite (Aprilskloof). To say selection is rigorous is an understatement. The vines are pruned to allow for around 25 hl/ha so as to encourage full phenolic maturity. Picking takes place in the early morning into 15kg lug boxes and refrigerated down to 5 degrees C for 24 hours, when a team of 20 women painstakingly select, often grape by grape, into a final selection bin. These are destemmed and about 50% are crushed and allowed to cold soak for two to four days. All parcels are vinified separately. Fermentation takes place in open wooden vats with native yeasts using traditional pigeage. Post fermentation maceration lasts up to three weeks, depending on the vineyard. The grapes are pressed in a tiny basket press and transferred (with buckets) into oak barrels, not all of them new, where malolactic takes place and the wine is racked through a primitive system relying solely on gravity. After blending at about eight months, Eben allows for 24 months in barrel before bottling unfined and unfiltered. Just over 5,000 bottles were produced of the 2000 vintage, and in 2001, the extremely low crop yielded just 15hl/ha. In South Africa, these are highly sought after wines, aided by a five star rating for the 2000 in the John Platter Guide.
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2002 Sadie Family Shiraz Columella ($67.50)
Country: South Africa Region: Coastal Region Subregion: Swartland Appellation: Swartland Designation: Columella Varietal: Shiraz
The John Platter SA Wine Guide: 5 Star Winner
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| With 2002, we see the introduction of a white partner, Palladius, the successor to Columella. This wine is a revelation, tasting nothing like any other wine made in the southern hemisphere - Eben's inspiration here being the white produced at Clos Mogador. It is a blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and (uncertified) Grenache Blanc. The Viognier component was fermented as red wine; on both skins and stalks, which explains the tannic edge. The Chenin is from 45 year old bush vines and the Chardonnay from 25 year old vines, making them some of the oldest in the Cape (in 1981 there were only 19ha planted in the whole of SA). The wine took a year to complete fermentation, being in older wood for 16 months. Only eight barrels were made. The wine's individuality has made it a challenge for a South African palate bought up on crisp, clean Sauvignon or over-wooded Chardonnay; however we believe it will be Palladius that finally gives Eben the international recognition he deserves. | |